Friday, July 29, 2005

A River’s Rage


July 26, 2005. Tuesday morning saw the commercial capital of India wake up and go to work, never mind that there had been 24 hours of heavy rain. And the rains came down and continued coming down. The waters started rising. And Mumbai took it in its stride. A resilient city with a survivor instinct. People laughed, joked, jostled each other and couldn’t care less. Drank a few extra cups of steaming hot tea at work perhaps, and hoped the city’s overcrowded, bursting-at-the-seams trains wouldn’t run too late (late is expected!)

Under the city, it was a different story. This time, said the river that people had forgotten about, this time I’m going to come up like the Loch Ness monster and give them a bit of a fright. Forget me, will they?

Not many people in Mumbai know about the Mithi River. Not even people like me who lived there for 20 years! It originates at Vihar and flows meandering past Powai Lake, one of the freshwater lakes supplying the city’s drinking water, down to Mahim Creek 16 kilometres away, where it empties itself into the sea. ‘A river?’ ask most people incredulously. ‘We thought it was a drain!’
That’s what the river is treated like today. Discharge of raw sewage, industrial waste and garbage choke its course.

What right had they to change my course, wondered the once free flowing, peaceful river? I was the city’s artery. The Thames and the Seine are fussed over by their city fathers. What happened to me? I want justice!

Can large cities take matters into their own hands and change the course of Nature? Can they build two airports – one domestic and one international - that cut off the flow of the river? Even recently, the airport has been reclaiming bits and pieces of land near the river, in one case filling in a 50-metre wide stream running into the river. And when the taxiway was extended, airport officials had the unmitigated gall to say it was not blocking the river, but being built on a bridge to allow water to flow below it! (Turned it invisible, did they?)

Can the greed and neglect of materialistic city fathers alter every curve of the river? And the area where it enters the Mahim Creek is supposed to be a protected bird sanctuary. Did anyone know? More important, did anyone care? What birds, when it has been reduced to a stinking gutter? And the city where dreams were only of pots of gold at the end of long train rides, long working hours and long lists of to-dos never looked up from their blinkered rat-race existence to protest. Where was the time?

The mouth of the river that was 1200 metres wide has now been reduced to a drain-like size of 300. And even that part is being coveted by developers who would like to build a spanking new sea-link from one point of the city to another.

How do you get rid of a river? Simple. So simple. You fill it up and concretize it, providing tiny drains for the water to flow. And when the area gets flooded during the drains, out come the pumps to pump out the water.

They’ve tied me up, locked me in, ravaged me, abused me. And now they drain the very lifeblood out of me. Now I need an eye for an eye, a tooth for a tooth.

13 years ago, the road to Vihar was blocked for ‘security reasons’. Tonnes of earth have been dumped and lo and behold, it seems a road is being built – a road that passes two seven-star hotels. A river that was the city’s means of draining out the water during the rains into the sea, a river that was the city’s insulation against flooding, a river that was Nature’s gift…. pillaged, plundered, heartlessly raped.

But Nature, especially Water is a potent, powerful force that like a serpent bides it time and strikes true and hard. The 26th December tsunami was a testimony to that. This river, too, waited for its day of reckoning and struck back. For 4 days, the city of Mumbai came to a standstill. Knee-deep to neck-deep water everywhere. No electricity, no water, no transport, no phones. All flights grounded. Cars abandoned on every road, floating in water. So many innocent lives lost, human and animal, so much damage, so much waste. And the sad part? We were responsible.

Sometimes, said the river, the mills of God grind slowly. Justice is served. A very, very wet justice! And if there’s no reparation, wait till the next rains come around!